O'Neill's

Chains may be infamously uncool, but this new branch of O'Neills has made a sterling effort to overcome the stereotype. The mood is friendly and relaxed rather than naff, with hearty grub that won't upset the bank balance or the stomach. The lamb shank and chocolate fudge cake come highly recommended – the former was tender and tasty, while the latter was utterly decadent. Itchy was reminded of the scene in Matilda where the child is forced to eat a huge slab of cake, but without any of the tears and torment. You won't pay much more than a tenner for a main (they start at around £7), and even the most pretentious among you might be pleasantly surprised.

Rosie Wilson

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