O'Neill's
Chains may be infamously uncool, but this new branch of O'Neills has
made a sterling effort to overcome the stereotype. The mood is friendly
and relaxed rather than naff, with hearty grub that won't upset the
bank balance or the stomach. The lamb shank and chocolate fudge cake
come highly recommended – the former was tender and tasty, while the
latter was utterly decadent. Itchy was reminded of the scene in Matilda
where the child is forced to eat a huge slab of cake, but without any
of the tears and torment. You won't pay much more than a tenner for a
main (they start at around £7), and even the most pretentious among you
might be pleasantly surprised.
Rosie Wilson

